A street food stall near Sion Circle in Mumbai is serving Aloo Handi to the city goers for Rs. 10 for last 23 years. Aloo Handi is possibly one street food that is found nowhere else
Aloo Handi. Pics/Shunashir Sen
Around 60 years ago, an aloo-chana chaat vendor near SIES College in Sion sat idle with restless fingers. He absent-mindedly picked up a peeled boiled aloo, cut it breadth-wise in half, and scooped out the centre as you would do with a baked potato before filling it.
At that moment, a customer happened to stop by. Seeing the scooped-out potato, he asked the vendor to stuff it with chutney, spices and chana, and popped it in his mouth like a pani puri. The burst of flavours pleased the customer, and he told his friends about it. Word spread. Soon, the vendor realised that he could make a business out of the product, and replaced the chutney with tamarind water. He named it Aloo Handi, since a handi is something we fill in. He spent his working life at that same stall in the city. Later, he went back to his farm in Uttar Pradesh (UP) to spend his twilight years.
Around the same time, in 1987, a 15-year-old named Laxmikant Mishra got off at VT from Basti zilla in UP, looking for the big-city life. He got in touch with a family connection, Jaiprakash, a person whom the anonymous Aloo Handi vendor had taken on as an apprentice and bequeathed his trade to.
But Jaiprakash had other things on his mind as an entrepreneur. So, he took Mishra under his wings, teaching the ropes, for him to take over. This was around 1991. Mishra was barely out of his teens. But after evading the authorities for long in search of a permanent space, the young man finally found a place behind Guru Kripa restaurant in Sion — close to the original stall near SIES College — in 1994. That’s where he has been ever since, perfecting the Aloo Handi for 23 years.
Laxmikant Mishra at his stall
“In the early days, no one would let me have a permanent spot for my stall. So I’d run here and there. After a while, I found a fixed place — this very place. Since then, I have not really faced any trouble, but right now…” Mishra pauses mid-speech — alluding to a subject he had shared his suspicion about when we’d introduced ourselves for a chat. The subject being, The Tax That Must Not Be Named.
Mishra’s eldest son, Shubham, is 21. He is his father’s apprentice, and will inherit the business. In doing so, he will be allowing his father to live his dream — that of heading back to his family’s farm. But when Shubham takes over, he will also be taking forward a legacy that is quite unique in the Indian street food spectrum. We have never seen the equivalent of an aloo handi anywhere else.
After all, it’s a product born out of serendipity.
Time 11 am to 10 pm, daily
At Behind Guru Kripa restaurant, off Sion Circle, Sion West.
Cost Rs 10 for two aloo handis; Rs 15 for a serving of aloo-chana chaat
How to make the Aloo Handi
Ingredients
Boiled potatoes
Boiled desi chana
Minced onions for garnishing
Tamarind water with chilli powder
Spice mix: red chilli, coriander, cumin, black pepper, clove and cardamom; all powdered, salt, black salt and dry mango powder.
Method
Peel boiled potatoes, cut breadth-wise and scoop out.
Put the spice mix and chana in the potato.
Drizzle chilli tamarind water.
Top up with onions.
Eat it like a pani puri.